A dress shirt can cost you anywhere between INR 500 and INR 15,000; a fact that can scare most men at first glance. However, it is the quality behind this shirt that can make or break an outfit. It is the smallest details that matter and before you whip out your credit card, we wanted to explain what those details were. A shirt can play the lead when worn alone with trousers or as a strong supporting actor under a blazer or jacket. You would never want to let your whole outfit down simply by choosing the wrong shirt, so read carefully as we break down the dress shirt so you know exactly what you’re paying for.
Starting in the most obvious place, the top, the collar is one of those pieces that is easy to customize and contributes quite heavily to the overall look of your shirt. Being the most visible part of your shirt, you want to ensure that your collar neatly frames your face and is of the most flattering style. We suggest you always opt for stitched collars over fused collars (where the layers are glued together rather than sewn) as these offer a lighter, less stiff appearance and feel. The most common collar style is the point collar where the angle between each peak is around 60 degrees. Spread collars are more spread out and are better for people with longer faces as they widen your features rather than keep them contained like a point collar.
The yoke is the strip of fabric that goes from shoulder to shoulder at the back of the shirt. There are two kinds of yokes, either a single yoke that is, naturally, one piece of fabric; or the split yoke which has two. The split yoke is actually better for shirts as it gives you a neater fit and more flexibility.
This is the strip that goes down from the collar and holds together the buttons and button-holes. You can choose from a variety of designs for your placket here, there are some where the buttons are completely hidden for example or where you find stitching around the buttons. This is totally dependent on your preference.
At Herringbone & Sui, we use only mother of pearl buttons which are not only beautiful, but long lasting as well. You can personalize your buttons depending on the colour and style of the shirt. The better quality the buttons, the less chance you’ll have of them popping off at an inopportune moment.
Apart from the collar, this is the second part of your shirt that is the most visible under a jacket. You can customize your cuffs to suit you and there are two main kinds of cuffs. The first is the basic button cuff which you’ll find on most shirts. The second is a French cuff which is considered more formal but can be used for everyday wear as well. The reason these are used less is because you need to fasten the cuff with cufflinks which can be tedious for daily use.
A dress shirt should be made of the finest quality fabrics and tailored to your exact specifications so that you look and feel your best. Every shirt at Herringbone & Sui is stitched using Neapolitan techniques and can be customized to your preferences so you know that every penny you’re spending is worth it.